Portsmouth, Dominica to Les Saintes

Miles: 19
Hours: 3

Coconuts... falling from the sky! Oh right, guy with a machete

Coconuts… falling from the sky! Oh right… dude with a machete

Portsmouth turned out to be a pretty decent anchorage in terms of holding and protection from the typically easterly seas. Unfortunately it is also a very loud anchorage. Wednesday (allegedly), Friday, and Saturday were the worst in terms of music from the shore. Much like Tyrrel Bay, Carriacou, the sound systems are low quality and they are geared to produce enough base to vibrate your hull from across the bay. Friday night was exceptional, as a local got ahold of the microphone and sang along to the music until after the sun came up. So… not so much with the sleeping that night. We had difficulty disposing of our trash in Portsmouth. The public dock and the customs dock absolutely refused to take any, even for a fee. I was informed that the boat boys are also not allowed to take garbage. Another cruiser later told us that they were able to get rid of theirs at the mouth of the Indian River.

Not one of the Star Clippers, but you get the idea...

Not one of the Star Clippers, but you get the idea…

The restaurants on the shore were marginal, but the Purple Turtle at least had decent wifi one day… and absolutely no wifi the next when all of the sailing cruise ships rolled in. Not sure if there is a connection there or not. We’ve never had any interest in one of the big behemoths that scare the bejebus out of us at night, but these smaller sailing cruises by Star Clippers are intriguing. We talked to the passengers and they indicated that the food was exceptional, and they’ll let you help out with sailing if you are so inclined. Mmm… tall ships.

A crazy pad in Portsmouth, Dominica.

A crazy pad in Portsmouth, Dominica.

I took the bus into Rousseau to get the propane tanks refilled, and while the drive along the coast was quite scenic, I don’t think the town itself would have had much to offer the kids. Also, it didn’t feel particularly safe. I stopped to buy post cards and the cashier at the store warned me about the “crazy” guy outside that was “known for beating up and robbing tourists.” Sure enough he tried to steer me into an alleyway as I walked back towards the bus depot. No thanks bud.

The kids had fun with the boys from s/v Alchemy and their board behind the dink.

The kids had fun with the boys from s/v Alchemy and their board behind the dink.

We decided to pull up the anchor and head to Les Saintes rather than facing another night of music. We had another lovely sail, but we were glad we hauled up the dink because we had some bouncy seas on the beam at times. Les Saintes is absolutely beautiful. It is a lovely little pocket of islands off the south coast of Guadeloupe. There are mooring balls for a fee maintained by LSM. You can park your dink at the second dock to the left of the ferry terminal when seen from the water. You can pay for your ball and clear in at LSM which is a short walk back towards and then just past the ferry terminal. Weekly rates are better than daily, but they are reasonable either way.